2005 year seems to be not a distant past. Whereas, however, fashion and the trend is changing several times a year, what was previously presented as new - after a few months novelty and no longer can already to pretend to objects, complementary fashion history archives assembly. Therefore, fashion history at tention field does not necessarily have to include a distant of historical epoches. The change of fashion trends of 21 century is no exception, but rather unchangeable rule, addressed to all fashion besivaikantiems wind, and especially designers, who wishes to be successful and safe manner to fulfill all its eternal circle. It is no coincidence that among other designers there are an italian origin designer Riccardo Tisci (born 1974), who works for Givenchy in Paris.
In 2005, during the Milan fashion week among many famous Italian fashion brand names appeared and so-called designers - newcomers. Riccardo Tisci was one of them. His ready-to-wear autumn winter collection of 2005 was an indicator marking personality and aesthetic views of the young fashion designer. Riccardo Tisci stylistic touch, that we see in Givenchy
collections from 2005, already at that time had a fairly well-established stylistic. Riccardo Tisci said: "There's something of the night in myself", "A childhood memory of processions, veiled women, pale Madonnas, that has never left me." Strong ties with Christianity, religiosity, women's role and conception of female beauty, the Italian nature, childhood memories, experiences, romanticism breathing in details and the resulting from the opposition, asceticism use and interpretation of subcultures styles. Riccardo Tisci chose local endowed themes. They are personal, coming from the environment, heart and subconscious shelves. Designer work is sensitive and tied with emotions. Autobiographical details are being transformed and transferred to the collections. Moreover, and to this, and for autumn - winter 2005 collection.
The presentation of the collection was transferred to the abandoned industrial space - factory. Dark covered environment, to arrange a podium marked on the runway scattered flower rings. Reforested wooden cross became the accent of the event and at the same time a reference to the collections theme. Transferred into non-sacreligious environment, the latter did not become an
object for stage or decoration, however, has maintained its original purpose and understanding. The collection, which presented in more than thirty different models, dominated by natural, local land colors. Black is one of the constituent Riccardo Tisci style parts. Without the latter, the trio collection colors, intense brown and flawless purity white. This "Blessed Trinity" is like a code, hiding meanings in itself. Black is associated with a mandatory priests' wear, which is worn during officiating at religious ceremonies. In the meantime, brown or white is associated with monks' clothes. Together, white can symbolize purity, innocence and fragility. Black - peace, mourning, restraint and luxury, and elegance and universality of "Chanel" - color that confirms timelessness law.
Models walking on the runway seem to be easily transferred into daily Madonnas. Light pleats flickering in the air and around their bodies form an easy, simple, free silhouette, which poses an associations, related to religious iconographic pictures. In the collection we can see two dominating one another and the opposition forming silhouettes. The abovementioned free silhouette changes as far as shorter, feets' non-covering, three quarters of a silhouette, contrary to the first, highlighting
women's body lines. It is likely that, Riccardo Tisci likes to contrast principle and works to use it to play. On one hand, the previously named "free silhouette", thin fabrics, including - silk, hangings and pleats - fulfills designer concept, i.e., a romantic, feminine image of a woman. On the one hand, Riccardo Tisci from opposite context extracts and uses romanticism with military style accents: harsh footwear, high heels, a tightening leather belts with metal buckles, double-breasted buttoning overcoats and short jackets with emphasized shoulders. He experiments with textures as well as with different types of tissues. Delicate tissue is changed to rough invoice, molded silhouette to free and light draperies. It is worth not to forget the details. The latter is not very much, but through Riccardo Tisci eye does not escape even smallest accents. Designer uses elements that have nothing in common with each other: knotted, white or black painted ostrich feathers, transparent face-covering veils, fur caps, embroidered glossy parts.
One of brightest collection item seems to be doubtful. Silky widened-sleeves blouse, office type and pencil-form skirt and the entire combination is spiced by using a veil, covering model's face together with a high-top head-scarf. Moreover, a debatable is a black dresses decorated of tassels combined with a massive fur hat, which raises an association with 18 century canadian border guards - frontiersmen or US colonialists who worn racoons' fur caps. An impression of incompleteness is
made by useing rough edges. Perhaps it would be possible to adopt this kind of conception that is inherented into the common visual image (just remember Prada's spring summer ready-to-wear collection of 2010). The choice of different hairstyles disbalance entire colletion. Hair tied to the majority of designers recently favorited "pony tail", curled, natural loose hair or taken to a massive hair bun. Riccardo Tisci chooses a variety of make-up: dark highlighted eyes, natural color of lips. Or vice versa: lips colored in a dark tone, natural color of eyes. On the one hand, such experimentation on little correlation of uncommon details poses a risk to the main visual and aesthetic look. On the other hand, these unexpected "spices" gives picantism to the latter.
Although autumn - winter 2005 collection, presented in Milan fashion week was not the first designer debut - 1999, he introduced his diploma collection in St. Martins college under the title "8:30, The procession". However, Riccardo Tisci collection tends to miss something. Although you can not name it "a student's work of a last night". The creations of Riccardo Tisci each time force us to take a deeper breath and prepare for surprises. And if, however, this does not happen, we would rather think that this time the muse of Riccardo Tisci overtook him. Remember the recently presented spring-summer 2014, ready-to-wear menswear collection, in which must have dominate flower prints but for unknown reasons, it was suddenly replaced. Instead of it, were there included new motives of african tribes together a mix of techno-style elements. 2005 marks the formation of Riccardo Tisci style. Autumn - winter 2005 collection was the last Riccardo Tisci work made under his own label, after which he received an invitation to become head-designer for Givenchy fashion house.
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