TISCIOLOGY: Review: Riccardo Tisci – the debutant. Givenchy haute couture autumn

February 25, 2005 in one of the most famous French fashion houses – Givenchy, radical changes have happened. After the crisis that unexpectedly overtook in there, young and bold Italian designer Riccardo Tisci took the position of head-designer. Although he was not the number one in the group of many others who attended to hold this most wanted stand. The big surprise came when there were officially announced – young and fresh designer without having his huge luggage of experience in fashion industry, will be governing historian label of Hubert de Givenchy. Just after his “inauguration” Riccardo Tisci had to cope with pressure and in a course of work to present the very first haute couture collection for autumn – winter 2005/2006 season which was not only his debut but also the very fresh start marking the new and perhaps better stage in comparison with the time between Julien MacDonald’s end of career and the beginning of Riccardo Tisci.

Like two different unearthly powers, black and white were chosen to become the main colors of the haute couture collection. This feature, then these two colors are used, was noticed in designer’s latest ready-to-wear autumn - winter 2005 collection and presented during Milan fashion week. It seems that Riccardo Tisci focus on long silhouettes: from floor-length to classical midi. Only few short dresses surprisingly appear among drifty patterns, mostly made of silk or chiffon. A variety of textures are also included: ruffles, knots putted on jackets or blouses, as well as waving pleats, soft fur or even exotic features dyed in nightly black. All these textures are mixed and connected into unity in which shiny black leather, transparent and subtle patterns, glossy silk or heavy royal velvet-like elements are invited by the youngest couturier Riccardo Tisci. Designer enjoys playing with things that seems to be different or even contradicting one to each other. He experiments not only with long – short lengths, but with widths too. This can be said about hairstyles as well. Witchy electrified hair is matched with another opposition - simply loosen “everyday hairstyle”.

The house of Avenue George V in Paris which is known as main Givenchy maison during the show was turned into bohemian-like and quite messy environment. It seems, the place was abandoned just after the “partying hard” night or the time was missed to prepare fully for the show. Rose petals scattered on the floor, chairs piled up onto each other, white silky curtains that were carelessly drawn, unnatural lightning, darker corners or unhidden equipment left just after the end of photo shoot – Avenue George V maison was separated into several different spaces.

Catholic symbols or vivid image of Madonna are usually best known features of Riccardo Tisci’s creative world. In the collection of ready-to-wear autumn – winter 2005/2006, the Madonna’s modern image was highly presented. This time Madonna was somehow left behind the door of Givenchy maison. Instead of probable image, designer created refined style of townswomen combined with 19^th century Italian Donnas’ whose style is better known for their black, funeral-like outfits and covered faces by wearing transparent veils. Lighter pieces of whole haute couture collection seem to be an independent part of it. Push-up hairstyle, loosen patterns, long skirts mixed with classical silhouettes and cuts (take a look at chiffon blouse or halter–neck dress) reminds the elements taken from boho and formal wear. This independent part of the collection looks more free and less strict. Although the black part seems to be more haute couture-like.

The newborn face in fashion industry, Italian designer Riccardo Tisci is the fourth candidate to match Givenchy maison head-designer’s crown. After John Galliano, Alexander McQueen, Julien MacDonald he started recovering the maison. Although Riccardo Tisci’s fresh start was quite risky and perhaps stressful for himself but this start was really FRESH. No maximalism or theatrical styles of Galliano, no radicalism or aggression of McQueen, no walking on the edge then there is a possibility to turn aesthetics into sense of… vulgarity. Riccardo Tisci was enough cautious and thoughtful. By opening a new page of Givenchy and turning its helm to a new direction, he proved that even haute couture which has its history and traditions can be changed. Universality, a little drop of classics, simple and less pretentious silhouettes can make this luxurious haute couture industry look fresher and modern, just like Coco Chanel made non-lux fashion to become trendy.

Photos: Vogue.it